Old Town, Tbilisi, Georgia
Photo: Andrew Milligan sumo, CC BY 2.0
Food

The Best Khachapuri in Tbilisi: Where to Eat Every Style

Tbilisi is known for its cheese bread. Here are the styles to order, what they cost and where I go for each one.

Khachapuri is the dish Georgia is famous for, and Tbilisi is the easiest place to eat every version of it. Here's what you need to know about the main styles, from the egg-topped Adjarian boat to the everyday round Imeruli, plus the 10 places I'd send a friend, what khachapuri costs in 2026 and how to order it without drowning in bread.

What is khachapuri?

Khachapuri is bread baked around cheese. The name joins two Georgian words, khacho (curd cheese) and puri (bread), and that's an honest description of every version you'll meet. Each region bakes its own style and names it after itself: Imeruli from Imereti, Megruli from Samegrelo, Adjaruli from Adjara on the Black Sea coast.

It sits at the center of Georgian food next to khinkali, and most Georgians would call it the national dish. You'll see it on the table at breakfast, at long family dinners, at roadside cafes and at 2 AM after a night out. The cheese inside is usually Imeruli, a fresh, mild cow's cheese, often mixed with sulguni, the salty, stretchy one that gives a good Adjaruli its pull.

Khachapuri types: the styles to know

There are more regional khachapuri than anyone can eat in a week, but six styles cover almost every menu in Tbilisi. This is the cheat sheet I'd keep on my phone for the first few meals.

StyleWhat it looks likeFromWhere I'd eat itPrice
AdjaruliOpen boat of dough with molten cheese, a raw egg yolk and butterAdjara, on the Black SeaRetro, Puri Guliani, Cafe Stamba14 to 28 GEL
ImeruliRound and sealed, cheese baked insideImereti, western GeorgiaSormoni, Cafe Daphna, any bakery3 to 6 GEL a slice, 10 to 20 GEL whole
MegruliLike Imeruli, with a second layer of cheese baked on topSamegrelo, western GeorgiaMapshalia, Dadiani10 to 20 GEL whole
PenovaniFlaky puff pastry folded around cheeseBakeries all over GeorgiaAny bakery, Cafe Stamba3 to 6 GEL
AchmaThin sheets of dough layered with cheese, like a lasagnaWestern GeorgiaBakeries and Georgian restaurants3 to 6 GEL a slice
GuruliA crescent with chopped boiled egg in the cheeseGuria, baked for New YearBakeries around New YearSeasonal

Adjarian khachapuri and how to eat it

Adjaruli, also written Adjarian or Acharuli, is the khachapuri you've seen in photos: a boat of dough with pinched, pointed ends, filled with molten cheese and baked hot, then finished with a raw egg yolk and a knob of butter just before it reaches the table. It comes from Adjara, the region around Batumi on the Black Sea, and Georgians will tell you the shape is a boat, which makes sense for a port town.

Three Adjaruli khachapuri boats filled with cheese baking on the brick floor of a wood-fired oven
Photo: Fiqria Goginashvili, CC BY-SA 2.0

Eating it is half the fun. Stir the yolk and butter into the cheese with a fork the moment it lands, while it's hot enough to cook the egg a little and turn the middle into a glossy, rich dip. Then tear off one of the pointed ends of crust, dunk it, and keep working your way in from the edges. Hands are fine, and expected. By the time you reach the bottom, the base has soaked up the butter and is the best bite of the lot.

Size is where first-timers go wrong. Many menus list more than one size, and a large Adjaruli is a full meal for two people with a tomato salad on the side. A small one is plenty for one. Order a large one each and you'll leave half of it on the plate.

Imeruli and Megruli: the everyday khachapuri

Adjaruli gets the photos, but Imeruli gets eaten. This is the round, sealed khachapuri from Imereti in western Georgia: Imeruli cheese baked inside a thin layer of dough, then cut into wedges like a pizza. It's what Georgians buy at the bakery on the way to work, bring to a picnic and put in the middle of a family table. It tastes milder than it looks, and it's very easy to keep eating.

A round Imeruli khachapuri cut into wedges, with the cheese sealed inside the dough and dark spots from the oven
Photo: Jon Gudorf Photography, CC BY-SA 2.0

Megruli is Imeruli's richer cousin from Samegrelo: the same round, with another layer of cheese baked on top until it browns and bubbles. It's saltier and heavier, and to my taste it's the better of the two. If you only try one round khachapuri, make it Megruli at a Megrelian place like Mapshalia or Dadiani, where it shares the table with elarji and Megrelian kharcho.

A Megruli khachapuri on a restaurant table, a round cheese bread with browned cheese baked across the top
Photo: Shayat1, CC BY-SA 3.0

Other khachapuri styles: penovani, achma, Guruli and more

Once you've done the big three, these are the ones I'd look out for:

  • Penovani: the bakery one. Flaky puff pastry folded around cheese into a square, built for eating while you walk. Cafe Stamba bakes a puff pastry khachapuri if you'd rather sit down with it.
A square penovani khachapuri on a baking tray, the puff pastry baked golden and blistered on top
PenovaniPhoto: Eka Samkharadze, CC BY-SA 4.0
  • Achma: thin sheets of dough layered with cheese and baked like a lasagna, soft in the middle and crisp on top. Bakeries sell it by the slice.
A serving of achma lifted from its tray, thin layers of dough and stretchy melted cheese under a browned top
AchmaPhoto: Pannet, CC BY-SA 4.0
  • Guruli: a crescent from Guria with chopped boiled egg mixed into the cheese. It's a New Year bake, so outside the holidays you'll rarely see it.
Guruli khachapuri, the crescent-shaped Gurian cheese and egg pastry, with a golden glazed crust
Guruli khachapuriPhoto: Georgia About, CC BY 3.0
  • Abkhazian khachapuri: Amra in Saburtalo serves one, and it's the easiest way to try a style most visitors never meet.
  • Khachapurito: Cafe Leila's three-cheese mushroom version, a good one for vegetarians who want something different.
  • Pkhlovana: khachapuri with leek and tarragon, one of the reasons to eat at Puri Guliani.

Then there are the cousins that look like khachapuri on the bakery counter but aren't. Lobiani is filled with beans, kubdari from Svaneti is stuffed with spiced chopped meat, and khabizgina, from Ossetia, mixes potato into the cheese. None of them is khachapuri, and all three are worth eating anyway. If you want to compare regional styles side by side at one table, Sakhachapure N1 is a chain built around khachapuri, with several regional versions on the same menu.

The best khachapuri in Tbilisi: my 10 favorite places

These are the places I'd send a friend, ranked by how good the khachapuri is rather than how famous the restaurant is. Most of them sit in two areas: Saburtalo, the residential district northwest of the center, and the streets around Marjanishvili metro and the Dry Bridge.

#PlaceNeighborhoodOrder thisBest for
1RetroSaburtaloLarge AdjaruliThe classic boat
2Puri GulianiDry Bridge, VakeAdjaruli and pkhlovanaA modern bakery lunch
3MapshaliaMarjanishviliMegruli with elarjiA cheap Megrelian feast
4Cafe StambaVeraThin, crisp AdjaruliA smart sit-down meal
5AmraSaburtaloAbkhazian khachapuriA style you won't see elsewhere
6DadianiSaburtaloMegruli and gebzhaliaMegrelian food on the Saburtalo side
7Cafe LeilaOld TownMushroom khachapuritoVegetarians
8Cafe DaphnaDry BridgeImeruliLate nights
9SormoniSaburtaloImeruliA big Georgian dinner
10A busy tone bakeryEvery neighborhoodImeruli or penovani sliceBreakfast on the go

1. Retro, Saburtalo

The lit Retro Adjarian Khachapuri sign over the brick front and windows of Retro in Saburtalo
Photo: Google Maps

Retro is the Adjaruli specialist, and the one place I'd go if you only eat khachapuri once in Tbilisi. It started in Batumi, the home of the style, and its branch in Saburtalo keeps the focus on that one dish.

Adjarian khachapuri with egg and butter at Retro
Photo: Google Maps

The large Adjaruli costs about 20 GEL, and two hungry people struggle to finish it; the smaller sizes suit one. I come here for the boat and nothing else, and I'd tell you to do the same. It's a short taxi ride from the old town. Who it suits: anyone who wants the classic done properly. Skip it if you want a long Georgian spread with ten dishes on the table.

2. Puri Guliani, Dry Bridge

Brick front and terrace of Puri Guliani on Saarbrucken Square
Photo: Google Maps

Puri Guliani is a modern Georgian bakery and kitchen, and my pick when you want khachapuri with a proper lunch around it. The Adjaruli is excellent, but order the pkhlovana too, then add a tomato salad with nadughi (a soft whey cheese), sulguni sticks and a bottle of Lagidze water, the old-school tarragon or pear soda.

Adjarian khachapuri with an egg yolk on a blue-rimmed plate at Puri Guliani
Photo: Google Maps

The main room is on Saarbrucken Square by the Dry Bridge, with tables out over the river, and there's an express branch at 37 Abashidze Street in Vake. In the morning, a cappuccino (10 GEL) and the ponchiki doughnuts make a fine start before the Dry Bridge market.

3. Mapshalia, Marjanishvili

Dining room with white plaster reliefs at Mapshalia
Photo: Google Maps

Mapshalia is a no-frills Megrelian canteen at Aghmashenebeli Avenue 137, a few minutes' walk from Marjanishvili metro, and the place I'd eat Megruli. Order it with elarji (cornmeal cooked with sulguni until it stretches), Megrelian kharcho and kupati sausages, and the whole table still comes in under 20 GEL a head.

Megrelian khachapuri with cheese baked on top, cut into slices on a wooden board at Mapshalia
Photo: Google Maps

The room is plain and the food is the only reason to come, which is the right way round. If it's full, Oro on Marjanishvili Street, a short walk away in Marjanishvili, cooks Megrelian khachapuri and kharcho too.

4. Cafe Stamba, Vera

Dining room with white tablecloths in the old printing house at Cafe Stamba
Photo: Google Maps

Cafe Stamba sits inside the Stamba Hotel on Kostava Street in Vera, a few minutes' walk from Rustaveli metro. Its Adjaruli is thinner and crispier than the classic, which makes it the one I'd order if a full Retro boat sounds like too much. There's a good Imeruli and a puff pastry khachapuri as well. The rest of the menu leans international and prices sit at the hotel end of the range, so book a table and treat it as a nice lunch rather than a cheap fix. Who it suits: couples and anyone who wants a smart room with their cheese bread.

5. Amra, Saburtalo

Dining room with wooden tables and leather chairs at Amra
Photo: Google Maps

Amra is the city's Abkhazian specialist, on Danelia Street in Saburtalo, a few minutes' walk from State University metro. Come for the Abkhazian khachapuri, a style you won't see on most menus, and build a meal around it: abkhazura meatballs, elarji with smoked ham, and Sokhumi ice cream to finish.

Sokhumi ice cream: plombir with tangerine jam and crushed nuts in a silver bowl at Amra
Photo: Google Maps

It's my pick for a second or third khachapuri meal, once you've done the famous styles and want something different. Who it suits: travelers on a longer stay, and anyone who has already eaten their Adjaruli and wants to try something new.

6. Dadiani, Saburtalo

Arched windows and potted trees outside Dadiani in Saburtalo
Photo: Google Maps

Dadiani is another Megrelian kitchen in Saburtalo, a few minutes' walk from Technical University metro, and the easier Megruli stop if you're staying on that side of town. The khachapuri is the double-cheese Megrelian round, and the menu around it is the reason to sit down: elarji with Megrelian kharcho, kupati, and gebzhalia, rolls of fresh cheese in a creamy mint sauce. Order one khachapuri for the table and let the rest of the food fill the gaps. Who it suits: groups who want a full regional meal rather than a bread stop.

7. Cafe Leila, Old Town

Painted ceiling, mirrors and red banquettes at Café Leila
Photo: Google Maps

Cafe Leila, at 18 Ioane Shavteli Street opposite Anchiskhati Basilica in Old Tbilisi, is a vegetarian restaurant in a former Soviet-era sweet shop, open daily from 11 AM to 11 PM. Its khachapuri is a three-cheese mushroom khachapurito, and I'd pair it with the mushroom kharcho in blackberry sauce with cornbread. Nothing on the menu is fried. Walk-ins are fine, so it makes an easy lunch between old town sights, and the whole meat-free menu makes it one of my first picks for eating vegetarian in Tbilisi.

8. Cafe Daphna, Dry Bridge

Arched dining room with peach walls at Cafe Daphna on Atoneli Street
Photo: Google Maps

Cafe Daphna, at 29 Giorgi Atoneli Street by the Dry Bridge, is where I'd eat khachapuri late. It's open daily from 11 AM to 2 AM and until 6 AM at weekends, and a meal runs about 25 to 50 GEL a person. Order the Imeruli for the table alongside the hand-made khinkali (beef, potato and cheese, or spinach); with four people, one Imeruli plus khinkali by the five is the right amount. Weekdays are calmer than weekends, and the staff will show you how to eat khinkali if you've never done it.

9. Sormoni, Saburtalo

Leafy courtyard terrace with wicker pendant lamps and dining tables at Sormoni
Photo: Google Maps

Sormoni, at 57 Alexander Kazbegi Avenue across from City Mall near Delisi metro, is the place for a big sit-down Georgian dinner where khachapuri is one plate of several. The Imeruli is the one to order, next to shkmeruli (fried chicken baked in garlic and milk), veal in pomegranate sauce and fried Mukhrani chicken. Trees grow through the dining room and the terraces are built like old wooden balconies. It's open daily from 11 AM to 12:30 AM, and I'd book for a Friday or Saturday.

10. Any busy tone bakery

A tone bakery in a brick-vaulted Tbilisi cellar, with the round white clay tone oven in the middle and a baker shaping loaves
Photo: Giftzwerg 88, CC BY-SA 3.0

The cheapest good khachapuri in Tbilisi comes from the tone bakeries, the neighborhood bread shops built around a round clay oven, and there's one in every district. A slice of Imeruli, a penovani or a lobiani costs 3 to 8 GEL, and a hot loaf of shotis puri 1 to 2 GEL. The trick is turnover: pick the bakery with a queue, where trays keep coming out of the oven all morning. Aghmashenebeli Avenue and the streets around Marjanishvili are full of them, and a warm slice eaten on the pavement is the best cheap street food in Tbilisi.

What khachapuri costs in Tbilisi

Khachapuri is one of the cheapest ways to eat well in the city. A whole Megruli split two ways works out at 5 to 10 GEL each, about the price of a cappuccino in a specialty cafe.

WhereWhat you getPrice
Tone bakeryA slice or small piece of Imeruli, penovani or achma3 to 6 GEL
Tone bakeryA loaf of shotis puri1 to 2 GEL
RestaurantA whole Imeruli or Megruli10 to 20 GEL
RestaurantAn Adjaruli14 to 28 GEL
RetroA large Adjaruli, enough for twoAbout 20 GEL
MapshaliaA full Megrelian meal with khachapuriUnder 20 GEL a head
Hotels and tourist streetsAdjaruli and house specials20 to 35 GEL and up

The rules of eating out in Tbilisi are simple: order for the table, ask for the bill when you want it, and check whether service has already been added before you tip.

A khachapuri day in Tbilisi

If you want to taste the range without eating three Adjarulis, this is how I'd spread it over one day. Each stop is a different style, and the bill stays low.

WhenStyleWhereCost per person
MorningA penovani or Imeruli slice with coffeeAny busy tone bakery3 to 6 GEL
LunchMegruli with elarji and kharchoMapshalia, MarjanishviliUnder 20 GEL
DinnerA large Adjaruli, shared by twoRetro, SaburtaloAbout 10 GEL
TotalThree styles, three neighborhoodsAbout 35 GEL or less, before drinks

Swap Retro for Puri Guliani if you're staying near the old town and don't want to cross the city for dinner. Swap Mapshalia for Dadiani if you're based in Saburtalo.

Khachapuri mistakes to avoid

Most bad khachapuri meals come from ordering too much, not from bad bread. These are the ones I see most often:

  • Stacking the bread. Khachapuri, khinkali, a bread basket and fries at the same meal is how first-timers leave half the table untouched. One big bread dish per table is plenty.
  • One Adjaruli each. A large one feeds two. Order one to share, plus a salad, and add a second only if you're still hungry.
  • Treating it as a side. A whole khachapuri is a main course. Order the rest of the meal around it, not on top of it.
  • Only trying Adjaruli. It's the famous one, but Imeruli and Megruli are what Georgians actually eat, and a trip without them misses the point.
  • Buying the wrong slice. A slice that has been sitting in a bakery window since dawn is dry and greasy. Go where the trays come out hot.

Khachapuri or khinkali? Both, at different meals. They're the two heavyweights of Georgian food and each one fills you up on its own, so I'd make one meal a khachapuri meal and the next one a hunt for the best khinkali in Tbilisi, ideally with a cold beer.

Key takeaways

  • Six styles cover almost every Tbilisi menu: Adjaruli, Imeruli, Megruli, penovani, achma and Guruli.
  • Retro for Adjaruli, Mapshalia for Megruli and Puri Guliani for a bit of everything are the three stops I'd make on a short trip.
  • Stir the yolk and butter into an Adjaruli straight away, then eat it with your hands, crust first.
  • Budget 3 to 6 GEL for a bakery slice and 14 to 28 GEL for an Adjaruli in a restaurant.

Frequently asked questions

Imeruli is the one Georgians eat most: the round, sealed cheese bread sold at every bakery. Adjaruli, the open boat with egg and butter, is the most famous outside Georgia and the one most visitors order first.

How do you eat Adjarian khachapuri?

Stir the egg yolk and butter into the hot cheese with a fork as soon as it arrives. Then tear off the pointed ends of crust, dip them in the filling and work inward with your hands. The soaked base is the last and best bite.

How much is khachapuri in Tbilisi?

A bakery slice costs 3 to 6 GEL, a whole Imeruli or Megruli 10 to 20 GEL and a restaurant Adjaruli 14 to 28 GEL. Hotel restaurants and the busiest tourist streets charge 20 to 35 GEL and more.

What is the difference between Imeruli and Megruli khachapuri?

Both are round and filled with cheese, but Megruli has a second layer of cheese baked on top. That makes Megruli richer and saltier, while Imeruli is the milder everyday version.

Can one person finish an Adjarian khachapuri?

A small one, yes, if it's your whole meal. A large Adjaruli, like the one at Retro for about 20 GEL, is sized for two people with a salad, and most solo diners leave half of it.

Is khachapuri eaten for breakfast?

Yes. A slice of Imeruli or a flaky penovani from a neighborhood bakery is how plenty of people in Tbilisi eat breakfast on the go, and at 3 to 6 GEL it's one of the cheapest ways to start the day.

Where is the best khachapuri in Tbilisi?

For Adjaruli, Retro in Saburtalo, with Puri Guliani by the Dry Bridge a close second. For Megruli, Mapshalia near Marjanishvili metro, and for a cheap slice of Imeruli, any tone bakery with a queue outside.